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9–16 May 2024 · Geneva · Fair & Auction Week

GemGenève and the Geneva Spring Sales

A week with the trade, the auction houses, and the stones

Geneva in May moves on a single rhythm. The week opens with GemGenève at Palexpo — this year the 8th edition, 9 to 12 May — and rolls straight into the spring sales: Christie’s and Sotheby’s back-to-back Magnificent Jewels auctions at the Four Seasons des Bergues and the Mandarin Oriental. The fair organisers call this collision Geneva Luxury Week; for those who work with stones, it is simply the busiest week of the spring.

The fair and the auction previews sit at a useful intersection of trade and inspection. The fair is where dealers bring stones and signed pieces; the previews are where one inspects, in person and at length, the pieces that catalogues only describe. Hours go on examination — loupe, micro-camera, the right kind of light — and on the slow conversations that follow.

Kehan Li at a Magnificent Jewels auction preview, taking notes against a catalogue showing a sapphire and emerald lot, wearing a green jadeite bangle.
Auction preview — catalogue notes against the stones
Close-up of Kehan Li examining a pair of long diamond pendant earrings down a loupe at the auction preview.
Down the loupe — a pair of diamond pendants
Kehan Li examining a row of natural pearl strands laid out on a white tablecloth at the auction preview.
Examining strands of natural pearls at the preview
Kehan Li photographing a row of natural pearl strands for client records during the auction preview.
Reference photographs for client records
Kehan Li at a GemGenève table examining a single stone, with calculators, gem tools, and stone papers laid out across the surface.
At GemGenève — over a single stone

GemGenève, for its part, is the part of the week that most pleases Kehan. The fair is small enough to read carefully, large enough to surprise; one is shown stones in the open hand of the cutter, looked at across a table, returned without ceremony if they are not the right thing. The auctions, with their longer catalogues and louder evenings, sit at the other end of the spectrum — useful, necessary, but quieter work in the previews than at the rostrum.

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